Upriver, Myanmar

Central Myanmar is the traditional heartland of Bamar culture. Nestled in a bend on the Irrawaddy river, Bagan contains over 4,400 temples dotted over a vast area. Constructed over a 250 year period as the region converted from Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism to the Theravada Buddhism that predominates in Myanmar today, it was the capital of the first Burmese Empire. A place of pilgrimage for Buddhists all over South East Asia, Marco Polo was a reputed visitor.

Despite the romanticism attached to its name, Mandalay is a relatively new city, being only 150 years old. After the decline of Bagan following the Mongol raids in 13th century, the capital of Myanmar moved along the banks of the Irrawaddy in the area around Mandalay, finally settling on Mandalay itself in 1860. It held that status for 25 years until the arrival of the British. Mandalay remains an important economic and cultural centre, with around 60% of all monks in Myanmar based in the monasteries in and around the city. In recent years, monks have been active participants in the anti-government movement, and the city was the scene violent protests in 2007.

Further East, Shan State nestles up to the border with Thailand. This area is ethnically diverse with various tribes such as the Pa-O, Taung Yo and Danu living in the hills around Inle Lake. To the West is Rakhine State. This coastal region is the home of the Rakhaing ethnic group who speak Arakanese, a language related to Bamar, and share ethnic ties with their Northern neighbours, the Bangladeshi communities of Chittagong. Inland lies Mrauk U, the former Rakhaing Capital where 700 temples dating from the 13th to the 18th Century lie on the border with Chin State, home to more ethnic minorities.