Shahjahanabad

As its name suggests, Shahjahanbad was the creation of Shah Jahan (the fourth Mughal Emperor). He moved his capital to Delhi from Agra in 1638 and, like rulers before and after him, built a new city to symbolise his presence and consolidate his rule.

Shahjahanabad was built on new ground, allowing its architect complete freedom in the layout and design of the city. It is dominated by two stunning buildings, which remain amongst the most iconic in India today: the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid. The Red Fort now stands slightly apart from the rest of Shahjahanabad, the British having cleared the ground in front of the fort after the uprising of 1857 (partly as revenge, and partly for defence). Today, it functions as a museum, its detachment from Shahjahanbad complete.

The Jama Masjid is a different story. Physically dominating the walled city, it remains the centre of religious life for its many Muslim residents. It is India’s largest mosque, capable of holding 25,000 worshippers – not enough on the major festivals such as Eid when the congregation spills onto the surrounding streets. Far from the solemn atmosphere one might expect of a place of worship, the mosque throngs with crowds enjoying the space, families take picnics and children delight in running in and out of the buildings high arches, and playing around the pool which stands at the centre.

The city was of course was never wholly Muslim, and representatives of all of India’s major religions now, as in times past can be found amongst the people of Shahjahanabad. Their festivals are followed with gusto, often providing wonderful examples of how people of such different faiths can live so well together.

India’s largest medieval city is also its greatest bazaar; markets are arranged by area, with the sounds and smells of each transporting you from one industry to another in a matter of steps. Just outside the Jama Masjid is Asia’s largest auto part bazaar, where the sounds of car horns being tested, and parts being shaped with hammers drown out even the local muezzin. A few alleys down is Katra Nil, the coal market, where the air is thick with coal dust, and local workers, blackened, sweating and coughing stack bundles of coal for sale to Delhi’s businesses. Move on to Khaori Baoli, and the air takes on the aroma of spices – piles of dried chillies lie alongside such other ingredients, such as coriander, cardamom, chilli and cloves, and all are transported through the narrow streets on heavy wheelbarrows, pushed by lithe young men.

Street food is one of the real highlights of the area, with kebabs, pakoras, freshly baked naan, lassis and jelabis always within easy reach. The cries of ‘garam chai’ and sight of young boys carrying glasses of the steaming hot drink, or young men laying out paan leaves are also a big part of this city. Less frantic are Nai Sarak, known for books, clothing and stationary, where wedding invitations are big business, and Netaji Subhash Marg, India’s biggest secondhand book market.

Much of this industry is conducted within the walls of ancient havelis, once beautiful buildings housing the better off classes. Today, however, Shahjahanabad is a deprived area with many living in poverty in the absence of proper sanitation or electricity.